Wednesday, October 12, 2011

How To Avoid Dynamic Rollover In Helicopters

How To Avoid Dynamic Rollover In Helicopters

Rc Helicopter

What is dynamic rollover?

Dynamic rollover sounds like a term that might be used by the lottery companies. Every helicopter pilot is aware that dynamic rollover can be a problem when taking off or landing a helicopter.

Dynamic rollover is caused when a wheel or a skid on the aircraft becomes attached to the ground and acts as a pivot point that the helicopter can roll around. It is much more likely to happen on take-off, and if it is not handled correctly, the helicopter will roll over on its side and suffer substantial damage. This does occasionally occur to experienced pilots but is much more likely to happen with low time pilots.

Have you ever tried to pull the handle of a door and the door refuses to move? Then, when you push the handle the door opens and takes you by surprise. You were not expecting it to happen. The same thing can happen during a take-off. You raise the collective smoothly and one of the skids lifts of the ground. You expect the other skid to follow but unfortunately it is caught on something and refuses to move. Your natural reaction is to raise the collective further to make the helicopter break free of the ground but all you achieve is a fast roll of the helicopter towards the stuck skid. The momentum of this roll may be sufficient to keep the helicopter rolling over even though you now lower the collective. The inevitable happens and the helicopter rolls over unto its side and suffers severe damage.

The natural reaction to raise the collective to correct the problem is the wrong reaction and you must discipline yourself to do the correct action which is lowering the collective smoothly until both skids are on the ground.

Results

The results of a dynamic rollover are usually very severe. The helicopter is usually destroyed. The damage from a helicopter rolling over at the end of an auto-rotation is much less than the damage caused by dynamic rollover. This is because during an auto-rotation the blades are un-powered and if it rolls over, it will quickly come to rest. During a take-off however, you will be using a lot of power and if the helicopter subsequently rolls over, it will not come to rest so quickly and much more damage will occur.

Take-off

It can be seen that take-offs can cause a problem. Icy ground and frozen skids can be a real problem. Muddy or sticky ground, rocks, joints in concrete can all cause skids to catch and lead to dynamic rollover. Care must be taken during each take-off but especially the first take-off.

Make sure you are looking well ahead. Raise the collective smoothly until you feel the helicopter get light on the skids. From this point onwards, you must move the collective very slowly. The closer you get to taking off, the slower the collective should be moving. Try a small "wiggle" by moving the pedals slightly. This will give you an indication if both skids are free. If you are on a level surface, one skid will probably start to rise before the other. It is important not to rush the collective at this stage. If you feel the helicopter is rolling over too far, smoothly lower the collective and ensure that both skids are on the ground before recommencing the take-off. When both skids (wheels) are clear of the ground, get the helicopter to a safe height to make sure that the skids do not inadvertently catch on something.

When the helicopter is on the ground with the blades turning, never take your hand off the collective unless the collective is fully down and locked. There have been many instances of passengers moving the collective or collectives vibrating up until the helicopter rolls over.

Making sure that the aircraft is within its balance limits will also ensure that you do not run out of cyclic travel during normal take-offs and landings, thereby reducing the risk of dynamic rollover.

Further information on this subject may be found at Dynamic Rollover in my helicopter training blog.

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Tuesday, October 11, 2011

microGear R/C Micro Insect Bee Helicopter

microGear R/C Micro Insect Bee Helicopter




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microGear R/C Micro Insect Bee Helicopter



microGear R/C Micro Insect Bee Helicopter

microGear R/C Micro Insect Bee Helicopter



microGear R/C Micro Insect Bee Helicopter Overviews
microGearR/C Micro Insect Bee Helicopter

microGear R/C Micro Insect Bee Helicopter Features
  • New MicroGear 3 Channel Remote Control Insect Micro Bee Specifications: Specifications: o Main Rotor Diameter: 5.25inches (130mm) Length 6.5inches (170mm) excluding rotors.
  • ear Rotor diameter 1.25inches (30mm) oHelicopter weight: Only 10g, including Li-Poly battery oRechargeable Flight Battery: High capacity integral Lithium Polymer battery oCharger: Integral Transmitter/Charger supplied with LED indicator/Auto shut off.
  • Simply plug in and charge, with easy to use connections oFlight duration: 12 to 15 minutes oCharge Time: 20-30 Minutes for full char oReady To Run: Supplied completely assembled and ready-to-fly, with pre-installed 2 Channel Proportional Infra Red Control System oRange: Up to 100 feet (30 meters).
  • Frequency: Infra Red Control System - Bands A, B & C allow up to three models to be flown at the same time * Color Availables: n/a Notes: Color box and remote control subject to change without prior notice



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Monday, October 10, 2011

Building an RC Battery Pack - A Basic How-To

Building an RC Battery Pack - A Basic How-To

Rc Helicopter

If you love RC, you know the importance of a battery pack. The type of batteries you choose, how well your pack is assembled and how efficiently you charge them are all important aspects to powering your RC vehicle. Sure, you can buy a battery pack pre-assembled, but you can also build your own and get the satisfaction of designing and powering your own vehicle.

The first thing you need to do is when you decide to put together a battery pack is what you are powering and how much juice you need. You also need to think about the following:

1. Look at the chassis of your vehicle. The kind of vehicle doesn't matter as much as the amount of space in which you have to maneuver. The batteries may need to be oriented in a flat pack, a clustered pack or as both. You should also think about the distribution of weight in your vehicle - whether the battery weight is going to be distributed in a side to side or back to front manner. In some cases your chassis space for a battery pack is not adaptable, so be aware of those constraints before you start.

2. Look at the motor powering your RC vehicle. Depending on the power requirements, you'll be able to determine how many batteries or cells you need. This is also when you can decide the type of batteries you'll use - if you want to keep your NiMH batteries or upgrade to LiPo.

3. Determining your voltage is really a simple matter of addition. A standard cell voltage is 1.2v, so wired in a series - 12 batteries will add up to 14.4v - which would power an 14.4 volt RC electric motor.

Next, you'll need to gather your battery pack supplies - so here's a sample shopping list. Remember, we're assuming we're creating a battery pack with 14.4v, as in the example above:

o 12 Batteries or Battery Cells

o 12 Battery Bars (you can order battery bars in bulk if you plan to build more than one pack and save $)

o Wire: You'll want a higher quality 12 gage with a high strand count. This type of wire, with these characteristics will be more flexible which is ideal as well as being more efficient for power transmission.

o 80-100 Watt Soldering Gun. You'll want a gun because you can be more exact and quicker - this is necessary because of the heat sensitivity of batteries. The faster and more specific you can be, the less likely you'll be to damage the battery.

o 60/40 Solder. This is higher quality - also important for quick and accurate work and avoiding battery damage.

o Flux. This is a chemical cleaning agent that removes oxidation from metal to facilitate soldering. You can use liquid or paste flux when assembling a battery pack.

o Shoo Goo or Goop. This fast drying adhesive will be used to bundle the batteries together.

o Battery Pack Assembly Jig - optional. These assembly devices align the batteries properly and facilitate a tidy battery pack. The batteries end up basically looking like cord wood - tidily bundled.

o Soldering "Helping Hands" - optional. These devices allow you to hold things in place while you solder.

o Another optional timesaver is to get a "Helping Hands" accessory for your soldering station.

o Multi Meter. You need a good multimeter to test voltage and polarity.

o Wire strippers and Wire Cutters. These tools will help you handle, strip and properly cut your 12 gage wire.

o The final component is the shrink wrap which will go around the entire assembly and keep it tidy. You'll also need a heat gun to heat and shrink the wrap.

So, you've identified how to orient your batteries and how many you need - now you get to work on assembly. For this example, we're assembling 12 battery cells - 6 down one side and 6 down the other.

Once you identify where the batteries are going in relation to your chassis and how they are going to be laid out, you can begin. For this example, let's say we're doing 6 down one side and 6 down the other side.

Just to make sure we're on the same page, the ultimate goal here is to be running wire from the positive terminal of your first battery to the positive terminal on the electric RC motor and then running a wire from the negative terminal on the last battery in your pack to the positive terminal of your other battery pack, thereby creating a completed circuit.

This mean you need to have sufficient wire to reach from the positive terminal of your first battery to that terminal and likewise from the negative to complete the circuit with your other battery pack so bear that in mind.

Orientation. Align your first cell so that positive is pointing "upwards" and negative is pointing "downwards" and then reverse the next battery so it's opposite on down the line. If you purchased the battery assembly jig, this is when you'd use it to align your cells and hold them in place.
Adhere. Stick all the batteries together with your fast drying adhesive to they are in order and aligned properly.

Flux. Use your flux now on the connection points.

Connection - Use your battery bars to connect your cells. You'll need to heat up your soldering gun and heat up the battery bar. Using the bar protects the battery and when the flux starts to bubble, you employ your use of solder. The goal is to NOT heat the battery itself. Heating the battery is not only counterproductive, since if you damage the battery it won't work, but also dangerous because the cell might explode if overheated.

You'll want to complete the same steps for the remaining battery connections. You are connecting the negative to the positive over and over again. You'll then be ready to connect wiring to your battery pack.

The wires need to be pre-tinned which mean you need to strip off a quarter inch of the protective plastic wiring sheath, use the flux to clean them - apply the flux liberally - heat your solder gun and then heat the wire and flow the solder into the wire until thoroughly saturated. You'll also want solder on the batteries so the solder will act as the connector with the battery.

Once the two, six cell battery packs are complete, you'll want to employ the shrink wrap to secure them - and you'll have your complete battery pack! Now you'll be able to power and fly your RC helicopter, plane, boat, car or truck with no problems!

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InAir - Agusta Dolphin HH-65C U.S.C.G. Helicopter


InAir - Agusta Dolphin HH-65C U.S.C.G. Helicopter


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InAir - Agusta Dolphin HH-65C U.S.C.G. Helicopter

InAir - Agusta Dolphin HH-65C U.S.C.G. Helicopter
Premium large scale die cast helicopter.

InAir - Agusta Dolphin HH-65C U.S.C.G. Helicopter

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InAir - Agusta Dolphin HH-65C U.S.C.G. Helicopter

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InAir - Agusta Dolphin HH-65C U.S.C.G. Helicopter
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Sunday, October 9, 2011

Blue Angel Micro Paper Airplane That Can Actually Fly

Blue Angel Micro Paper Airplane That Can Actually Fly Video Clips.





This is atechnique to make paper airplanes, like almost all aircraft in the world and look at the best part is, in fact fly. All you need is a piece of paper, scissors, a small piece of tape, and access to a printer if you want to be painted. Download files for free by clicking these links. www.mylittleproductioncompany.com Ive had the following aircraft P-38 Lightning F-22 Raptor Working www.youtube.com www.youtube.com www.youtube.com Warthog A-10 F-14tomcat YF-23 Black Widow www.youtube.com www.youtube.com www.youtube.com SU-37 Flanker F-117 Night Hawk www.youtube.com SU-47 Berkut video early B-2 Spirit Stealth Bomber www. SR-71 Blackbird youtube.com www.youtube.com www.youtube.com D-21 drone C-130 Hercules F-35 Joint Strike Fighter Video www.youtube.com soon as the video soon Northrop Switchblade Hawker Harrier Hawker video soon P-1214 Hawker P-1208 video coming soon www.youtube.com video Hawker P-1226 issoon Hawker P-1216 F15 F16 F18 www.youtube.com www.youtube.com video coming soon on video soon 27 with the Blue Angel painting www.youtube.com P51 Mustang (spring fed) Video Star Wars X-Wing soon www . youtube.com www.youtube.com 747 X-29 Space Shuttle www.youtube.com Sign up for the latest videos RC 101.

Tags: Paper, air, plane, sub, micro, tiny, smallest, rc, helicopter, aircraft, fly, new, Indoor, fun, free, cool, video, 18, blue, angel, f22

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Electric RC Plane Terminology for the Beginner

Electric RC Plane Terminology for the Beginner

Rc Helicopter

Most of us are familiar with the two letter combination of R and C and what it means. When used together, they stand for the phrase "radio control." A growing number of aspiring and wannabe aviators are choosing to spend a large portion of their leisure time at the controls of an electric RC plane.

The pleasures enjoyed by those who fly model planes increases, if and when the hobbyist takes the time to learn a few principle terms. Those who have just begun to pursue RC flying normally operate a control with three different channels. The smart hobbyist learns the technical name for the thing that is controlled by each channel.

Every electric RC airplane will have a motor and a rudder. Two of the three channels in the controlling device will allow for remote operation of the motor and rudder. The third channel controls the elevator which determines the degree to which the aircraft will rise above the ground.

While hardly a new hobby, the growing numbers of enthusiasts who fly an electric RC plane--fueled by design improvements that make flying easier to learn and less expensive--do serve to illustrate the general public's fascination with flight. In turn, the increase in RC adherents continues to spur important innovations, such as brushless motors, electronic speed controls (ESC), nickel-metal hydride (NiMH) and lithium polymer (LiPo) batteries and spread spectrum radio systems.

Thanks to the introduction of 2.4 GHz spread spectrum technology, those who fly RC can now enjoy interference-free flying. If you are just starting out, consider purchasing a 2.4 GHz radio system as opposed to a traditional narrow-band set. That way you'll never have to worry about another pilot getting on your frequency and causing you to stall out or crash.

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Saturday, October 8, 2011

Hacker A20 Back Mounting Prop Adapter Set


Hacker A20 Back Mounting Prop Adapter Set


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Hacker A20 Back Mounting Prop Adapter Set

Hacker A20 Back Mounting Prop Adapter Set
This is a replacement back mount prop adapter set for the Hacker A20 series brushless motors.
Hacker A20 Back Mounting Prop Adapter Set

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*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Oct 09, 2011 04:53:59 ***

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